Page Three: The door, windows and handrail
The Instructions continued...
Step nine: The door
The cutout piece of plywood saved from the door hole can now be made into the door. Trim the bottom edge (about 20mm) to ensure the door will easily open and sand the edges. There should be about 5mm clearance both sides of the door.
Reinforce the door with 100x25 strips of wood nailed to the back.
Pack the door in place and screw on the hinges. See diagram.
Nail a piece of doorstop (25x25) down the doorjamb stud 32mm in from the outside (the thickness of the door). This acts as both a doorstop and wind and weather seal.
A preferred door handle / lock / or latch can be fitted.
Step ten: The windows
Draw a window pattern such as an oblong or heart or 4 squares (keeping within the perimeters of the window frame) and cut out with a jigsaw. First drill a hole through the plywood using a drill bit large enough to make a hole that will accept the jigsaw blade.
Once the windows are cut out, cover with an oblong piece of 3mm Perspex. Ensure the Perspex is larger than the window holes to allow for waterproof mastic sealant and screwing.
The tops of the Perspex on the sidewalls should tuck under the existing flashing.
Step eleven: The handrail
Cut the 90x46 treated top and bottom rails to fit between the posts and rebate them (a groove or trench down the middle to house the vertical palings).
Making the rebate. On one side only, pencil two lines 25mm apart along the length in the center of the rails.(see handrail detail diagram).Set the blade on your circular saw to a depth of 20mm and do repeated cuts along and between the two pencil lines.
Clean out with a chisel.
This will give you a rebated groove 25mm wide x 20mm deep along the center of the rails.
Cut 150x25 timber (standard fence palings ) into 540mm lengths and implement a pattern of your choice. The pattern shown in the handrail detail diagram is just one idea. Make the pattern on one piece of paling and use that as a template to do the rest.
Fit the palings into the rebated grooves in the top and bottom rails.
This is best done by laying the top and bottom rails on the ground and then inserting the palings into the grooves.
If the number of palings does not work out exactly, one of the palings will need to be marked and ripped (cut) down. When one section is finished, tie a rope around each end so the palings will not fall out while that section is being installed. Nail each section in, and fix the rails to the posts with 90mm galvanized jolt head nails. Do this to all 3 sections.
All Done. Eazy with a z. Have fun!
Materials List
 145x46 (ex 150x50) stock for floor joists. 15m of
90x32 (ex 100x40) stock for decking. 50m of
65x46 (ex 75x50) stock for framing. 80m of
65x46 (ex 75x50) treated stock for posts. 4m of
90x46 (ex 100x50) stock for ridge beam. 2.4m of
90x46 (ex 100x50) treated stock for handrail. 6m of
150x25 treated stock for handrail. 20m of
100x25 stock for fascia, barge board, ridge capping and door backing. 18m of
Galvanized horizontal weather strip flashing. 2.4m of
3mm thick Perspex or similar plastic for windows. 1.2 sq m of
Assorted nails, mastic sealant, hinges, door handle, misc
Go to...
Page 1: The floor and the frame
Page 2: The cladding and fascia
Page 3: The door, windows and handrail
|
